In this page we provide material (contributions are welcome!) to help whoever is interested in learning more about coastal research. The movies and pictures can be used in class or in presentations. Please make a reference using the info provided.
This model was originally developed by Brad Murray (Duke University) and Rob Thieler (USGS). The version in the movie results from modifications following a collaboration between Brad, Malcolm Green and Giovanni. The model was further improved by Evan Goldstein. The reference describing this simulation is:
Coco, G., Murray, A. B., & Green, M. O. (2007). Sorted bed forms as self‐organized patterns: 1. Model development. Journal of Geophysical Research: Earth Surface, 112(F3).
Check out this great video from Bruno Castelle (University of Bordeaux). The video shows results of Bruno's numerical model of surf zone morphodynamics and rip channel formation. Bruno has done a lot of work on the topic and you should definitely check out his work. The key reference for this video is:
This video, prepared by NIWA and Karin Bryan (University of Waikato) consists of a sequence of orthorectified images. Each image is actually the average of 600 images collected each hour during daytime. The averaging process emphasizes the presence of sandbars (white areas, where waves break) and rip channels (area with no white). It's quite incredible how mobile the rips are.
Gallop, S. L., Bryan, K. R., Coco, G., & Stephens, S. A. (2011). Storm-driven changes in rip channel pat
This vodeo was prepared by Zeng Zhou (Hohai University) at the time of his PhD in Spain. The simulation tries to reproduce the laboratory experiments of the Padua group (
Stefanon, Luana, Luca Carniello, Andrea D'Alpaos, and Andrea Rinaldo. "Signatures of sea level changes on tidal geomorphology: Experiments on network incision and retreat." Geophysical Research Letters 39, no. 12 (2012).). The key reference is:
Zhou, Z., Olabarrieta, M., Stefanon, L., D'Alpaos, A., Carniello, L., & Coco, G.
Here is an old goodie, a simulation using a CA model that reproduces beach cusp formation. Graphics and colours look old (hey, it was 1999!) but I think it could still be used in class.
If you need a reference, please use
Another 'vintage' video. This one shows the development of crescentic bars (or rip channels). Bottom plot shows the difference between actual and initial water depth (once the perturbation is large enough, one can also see it on the top subplot). Useful reference:
A video showing ripple evolution under step-change of wave condition. The power spectral density is derived from photos taken during the experiment. The dominant wavenumber indicates the dominant ripple spacing.